Edge tooling and base finishing

I've just finished up the tooled texture on the sawn edge of the table top. The Beebe micro scorp works great most places, but the curly and quartersawn grain in some places was tough. The fact that it keeps running up and down hill doesn't help either. It looks good, and feels great.

I've done the final sanding on the base, so its ready for its first coat of oil. I opted to use figure eight fasteners to attach the top since the grain where the legs would join is not going the right direction. This will make servicing the table easy if ever needed.

Finally today, I did all the edge softening on the top, a final once over on the edges, and sanded through 320 grit. It looks pretty amazing.

Base Assembly

Today I did the joinery for the table base. I set up the Multirouter to do twin 3/8" x 2" mortises. I did this by laying out the joint off a center line on each part. This ensures that all the mortises will be spaced exactly the same. I had to get creative to clamp the 15" tall leg parts to the table.

After all the mortises were routed, I machined floating tenons in the same walnut. I fit the tenons to the mortises and glued them into each end of the stretcher. This way there are only 4 to glue at a time rather than eight.

After the base was all together, I started experimenting on the edge texture I will be using on the sawn edge. I'm using a tool called a micro scorp. This tool is hand made in Canada by Beebe knife works. http://www.beebeknives.com/index.html



Here is what I intend to do with it. I'm working at following the grain direction in the pattern of the tooling. Not sure if that will be apparent or not, but I'm going to try.

Top work continues

I've finished what I believe is 5 or 6 rounds of epoxy filling on the top. Today I sanded off the excess and I think I'm finally there. Any other little pinholes I find will get done right before the final sanding. Here's how it looked before sanding.

I've also been working on the parts for the base. I'm going to be using the stylized "tree trunk" plinth legs I came up with on the original piece. I've milled 12/4 walnut for these, and I've sawn off the pieces that get shaped. After smoothing all the pieces, I glue the parts back together. After experimenting with three legged layouts, I've determined it to be too busy. Going back to the idea of two with a curved stretcher connecting.

I've mocked up several variations, with different leg placement and spacing. After finding a balanced, pleasing location for the legs, I started messing around with curves for the stretcher. I keep coming back to this one, which echos the curve of the top, and tapers subtly from one end to the other.

 Here's a couple more angles.

I think it looks good from just about any angle. Up next will be more edge work, and lots of sanding.

Top Filling Continues

Three days in, and the major void filling on the top is about complete. The ($150+ per gallon) West Systems epoxy I'm using serves several functions. It solidifies any areas that are loose, or inclined to become loose. It makes the rough edges of these voids smooth and flush with the surrounding surface. It will prevent spilled liquids from becoming trapped in or running through the table. It will serve as a grain filler, making for a flatter finish. And, it looks cool having the voids be filled with a transparent material you can see down into.

This is the underside. You can see my packing tape dams held pretty well, although plenty still ended up on the cart and floor. Here's a detail of a fully filled void, showing how you can see down into it.

One pass through the widebelt sander, and all the extra cured epoxy is gone! This stuff is as hard as glass when it is dry.

Here's a shot of the live edge after the bark has been removed. I'm starting to clean it up using a combination of an awl, chisel, and a small wire wheel in a drill. My goal is to preserve its character, while creating a surface that is friendly to touch.

This area is real interesting, although a little problematic. The edge tapers out very thin here, and there's a bark inclusion and a hole. I want to save as much natural shape as I can, but i also don't want this area to be too delicate that it might break. It is directly adjacent to an existing straight cut, so I could take it back a bit to make it thicker and stronger.

Tomorrow, sanding of the epoxy on the top side, and likely application of more.

Starting a new project today, based on a previous piece I built. The beech table shown here was the inspiration for the new piece, a commission from Greg in Roanoke, Virginia via Custommade.com. 

I was fortunate enough to find another beautiful slab of Copper Beech at Berkshire Forrest Products in Massachusetts. Its a really nice slab, and dead flat across its 48" of width! Its 2.5" thick, and will stay pretty much that way since I don't have to flatten this one. Unfortunately, its too big for Greg's room, so I have to make it quite a bit smaller. After numerous conversations and photos, I've come up with a road map to get me to the size that works for the room. Here's the full slab, followed by a detail shot of the cut line.

 The goal here is to make the cut from the center of the slab, look like its live, natural edge mate on the other side of the table. This will be done by following the grain, cutting at an angle that approximates the other side. After hemming and hawing for quite a while, I finally commit to doing it.

 Next, I trim the ends to the desired length and angle on the sliding table saw.

 The next step is flipping the top upside down, and removing all the loose bark. I do this with a combination of my deadblow mallet, and a small chisel on occasion to pry it away. Most of it falls off pretty easily with a couple raps of the mallet. I love the look of those worm tracks right under the bark.

Next I cover all the knots, voids, cracks etc. on the underside with packing tape. This will serve as a dam to keep the epoxy from running straight through when I start filling the voids from the top side. 

I flip it over, and mix up a big batch of the two part clear epoxy that I use to fill the voids. Despite my best efforts, its not foolproof, some will still find its way to the floor and onto my shoes. This is the first of what will be several applications of epoxy. I will add more each day until all the areas are filled and just proud of the surface. A torch is used to remove bubbles ensuring the areas are clear and void free.

 While the epoxy is seeping in, I mill some 12/4 walnut that will be used for the base.

That was a very good first day! I'm happy with the shape, lots of sanding to come.